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italian bakery's calabrian christmas treats evoke memories of nonna

petrali and susemelle are traditional cookies from the very toe of the italian "boot."

dolci sapori's christmas treats evoke memories of nonna
roberto cucinotta and francesca bellantone of dolci sapori italian bakery & cafe opened their business four months ago. jean levac / postmedia
dolci sapori italian bakery & cafe
939 somerset st. w., 613-230-7535, dolcisaporicafe.ca
open: sunday to thursday 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., friday and saturday 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
prices: calabrian christmas cookies under $4 each; pandoro gelato $55
access: steps to front door
for some customers, the special christmas cookies at dolci sapori italian bakery & cafe prompt fond remembrances.
“it’s nice when you talk with the people, they discover their memories,” says francesca bellantone, co-owner of the four-month-old store on somerset street west near preston street.
“they say, ‘oh, my nonna used to do that.’ it’s a nice surprise.”
 pandoro gelato is a ice cream-filled cake for christmas made at dolci sapori bakery and cafe on somerset street west.
pandoro gelato is a ice cream-filled cake for christmas made at dolci sapori bakery and cafe on somerset street west. dolci sapori bakery and cafe
bellantone and her partner in business and life, pastry chef roberto cucinotta, are from reggio, calabria, in southern italy. at their store in ottawa, they sell traditional calabrian christmas cookies, made using recipes from roberto’s father, cosimo, himself a veteran pastry chef in reggio.
there are petrali, crescent-shaped cookies that encase a filling of dried figs and mixed nuts, with a wee bit of marsala and rum thrown in. there are also susumelle, soft cookies flavoured with cinnamon, cloves, sugar, honey and chocolate. the recipe, bellantone says, is 100 years old.
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dolci sapori, which means “sweet flavours” in italian, also sells the nougat confection called toronne, which is more well-travelled than the christmas cookies. in spain, the candy is called turrón. in portuguese, it’s called torrão.
 festive holiday cookies from dolci sapori italian bakery & cafe.
festive holiday cookies from dolci sapori italian bakery & cafe. jean levac / postmedia
you can pick up the above treats if you drop by the store and peruse its well-stocked showcases. but dolci sapori’s grandest christmas treat, an ice cream-filled cake called pandoro gelato, is available by special order only. orders must be placed by dec. 21.
compared to pannetone, pandoro is a lighter, airier take on an italian christmas cake.
the couple opened their store just four months ago, fulfilling a dream that they had had for years, and which was put on hold during the covid-19 pandemic.
they chose ottawa because extended family are here. “we came to canada because we want to give a good future for our kids,” bellantone said.
 festive holiday treats from dolci sapori italian bakery & cafe.
festive holiday treats from dolci sapori italian bakery & cafe. jean levac / postmedia
 
 festive holiday cookies from dolci sapori italian bakery & cafe.
festive holiday cookies from dolci sapori italian bakery & cafe. jean levac / postmedia
do you have a favourite place to get a little treat in ottawa? send peter hum an e-mail to share your picks.

other treats of the week:

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peter hum
peter hum

ottawa native peter hum is the ottawa citizen's restaurant critic, a role he has been digging into since 2012. he has been a journalist and editor at the ottawa citizen/sun since 1990.

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